Bargman had two versions of this backplate. They had a one-bulb version and a two-bulb version. The one-bulb version was branded the No.98. The two-bulb version was branded the No.99. We offer both but they are the same size and the same lens fits both.
This is a stainless steel reproduction of the backing plate for the one-bulb version of the Bargman Trail-Lite No.98 taillight. It includes the backing plate, bulb socket bracket, bulb socket, wire leads and bulb. It is everything you need except the lens, gasket and 3 lens mounting screws.
It fits our Trail-Lite No.99 (No. 98) lens perfectly and has a diameter of 6-1/4".
There are three mounting holes spaced like a triangle with distances measuring 3-3/16", 3-23/32", and 3-7/16". If you need the complete assembly, we offer this backing plate with a lens, gasket and screws for a discounted price!
Construction: Backing plate and bulb socket bracket are 24ga 430 bright annealed stainless steel. Threaded screw holes are aluminum. Bulb socket is zinc plated mild steel.
The Lens VTS-112 is available separately. Or a Complete Assembly VTS-676 is also available with backing plate and lens.
This taillight has one 1157 bulb. An 1157 bulb is an indexed two-filament bulb. That means that it has two filaments of different sizes. The brighter filament is wired to your turn signal and your brake. The dimmer filament is wired to the running lights.
There is no ground wire. The wires coming off the bulb are positive wires. As with nearly all incandescent bayonet style bulbs, the bulb circuit is grounded through the base of the fixture. If you are installing on a trailer that uses a chassis ground for running lights, the stainless base will make contact with the trailer and that will complete the circuit. If your trailer uses a designated ground wire, you will need to affix your trailer's ground wire to the backing plate. You can do this with a rivet or any other method you find convenient.
We recommend placing the backing plate on your trailer with minimal caulk or sealant behind the plate. Use of caulk may prevent a ground and it may make later plate removal difficult due to the tenacious adhesion of polyurethane an other sealants. You may want a little sealant where the wires pass through your trailer skin, but primary water sealing should be complete after installation by running a smooth bead of caulk around the perimeter two-thirds of the backing plate. Leave the bottom one-third open as a weep hole. We recommend using one of our high quality sealants that are ideal for vintage trailers.
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